Monday, August 13, 2007

Azeitonas com Anchovas, Alcaparras e Pimento Vermelho

Alguém me sabe dizer o que se passa com as anchovas, aquelas de lata, muito salgadas? Recentemente gastei um fim-de-semana a procurá-las em várias mercearias e supermercados, sem sorte, quando antes as comprava facilmente na mercearia do bairro. E desde essa altura tenho espreitado as prateleiras sem as lobrigar. O fenómeno intrigou-me, mas acabei por esquecê-lo até que há poucos dias um familiar contou-me história igual e passada noutra cidade. Em Lisboa e em Setúbal parece que as anchovas de lata são bichos em vias de extinção. Espero que isto não tenha origem nas paranóias da ASAE ou da Comunidade Europeia (muito salgadas, pequenas, são vários os pecados que se podem imputar às anchovas) e que seja apenas o resultado de uma escassez temporária. Gostava de conseguir fazer as azeitonas com anchovas, alcaparras e pimento vermelho sem ter que rumar ao sul para comprar biqueirão e substituir o peixe de lata pelo pitéu algarvio (a receita ficava a ganhar, claro, mas não é muito prático).



Não é minha esta receita. Fui buscá-la à aceitunas verdes rellenas de pimiento y anchoa de José Andrés (do livro Los Fogones de José Andrés), à qual adicionei apenas a alcaparra. O processo é muito simples e resulta num fantástico aperitivo. Tira-se o caroço de meia dúzia de azeitonas grandes (prefiro as britadas, do Algarve), cortam-se ao meio, e num palito espeta-se metade da azeitona, uma alcaparra, meia anchova e um tira pequena de pimento vermelho. Fecha-se a “sanduíche” com a outra metade da azeitona. Num almofariz esmaga-se um alho e junta-se azeite (três colheres), vinagre (uma colher) e casca de laranja ralada (uma colher). Regam-se as azeitonas com este molho e deixa-se repousar durante trinta minutos. Antes de servir, pode-se polvilhar tudo com um pouco de flor de sal, mas com cuidado, pois as anchovas já são bastante salgadas.


A ideia de juntar uma alcaparra à criação de Andrés nasceu de uma variante da tapenade que inventei há um par de anos (são perigosas estas reivindicações, pois como se costuma dizer já não há nada de novo neste mundo; quem desconfiar da originalidade desta ideia pode atirar a primeira pedra, sem acanhamento). Variante simples, porque às azeitonas, alcaparras e azeite da tapenade canónica, apenas acrescentei as anchovas, bem desfeitas e misturadas com a pasta, que deixo mais grumosa do que a original. Uso-a para acompanhar carapaus alimados ou apenas para barrar em tostas.

Carlos Miguel Fernandes

105 comments:

Elvira said...

Bonitos aperitivos! :-)

Elvira said...

PS: encontrei dessas anchovas no Continente de Leiria. Estavam numa pequena prateleira perto da peixaria.

Joaninha said...

Deve ser bem apetitoso, adoro a mistura de ingredientes escolhidos! Adorei!

Justa said...

Tem-me acontecido o mesmo no Porto. As anchovas desapareceram das prateleiras.

Ana said...

De fazer crescer �gua na boca! E a fazer lembrar umas j� prontas (certamente menos saborosas)do el corte ingl�s, onde penso q j� comprei as ditas anchovas enlatadas. Mas habitualmente compro no jumbo ou no intermarch� (na zona da grd lx), onde at� ao momento tem sido f�cil encontr�-las.

CMF said...

Bem, ainda não podemos tirar conclusões. No Porto parece haver o mesmo problema, enquanto noutros lugares arranja-se facilmente. Resta saber se nestes últimos ainda há, ou se é em Lisboa, no Porto e em Setúbal que ainda não há depois de uma estranha escassez! :)
De qualquer forma, obrigado pelas dicas!

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Muy lindas recetas te felicito por tu blog, te invito a que recorras el mio.
Un saludo cordial

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