Wednesday, August 03, 2011

À Mesa com: Vicente Blasco Ibañez

Todos hablaban del famoso all i pebre que se hacía en el Palmar, como si hubieren hecho el viaje sólo para comer.

Vicente Blasco Ibañez, Cañas y Barro

Naquela noite de domingo, Palmar era um deserto. Havia meia dúzia de restaurantes com as portas abertas, e era à porta que estavam os empregados, a conversar com as mãos atrás das costas, a seguir, com o olhar, as poucas pessoas que passavam, e talvez a lamentar o presente ingrato. Numa noite fresca de final de Outubro vimos em Palmar o rosto amargurado da crise espanhola. E nas mesas vazias que ocupavam a rua principal vimos famílias que já não podem sair de casa num domingo, e outras que com isso se ressentem, e que mais tarde ou mais cedo não vão ter comida na mesa. A aldeia de Cañas y Barro, pobre, deprimida, está a cem anos de distância, e, ao mesmo tempo, tão perto.

O Club de Pescadores era o único sítio com sinais de vida. Aí nos sentámos, ao ar livre, e, enquanto esperávamos pela paelha, comemos um delicioso all i pebre de enguias: alho, pimentão, enguias, e um guisado que nasceu ali, nas margens da Albufera, quando os bichos agitavam as águas do charco e quase se deixavam apanhar com as mãos. Agora, tal como os ingredientes das paelhas de Palmar, as enguias chegam de longe, talvez até de outro continente. Os guardiões da Albufera já não têm muito para guardar, a não ser o arroz bomba, e um pequeno naipe de receitas que compõem um capítulo central da gastronomia espanhola. Já não é pouco.

Carlos Miguel Fernandes

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Boas tardes Carlos
Já trocamos noutra ocasião mails, em que lhe solicitei informação sobre restaurantes. E visitei algumas das suas sugestões em Varsóvia e em Bucareste. Como sei que continua conhecedor, e abusando do seu conhecimento, que sugestões me pode fazer de novo para Varsóvia e para Krakóvia?
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